YOHO NATIONAL PARK, B.C. -- The Rocky Mountains have been causing the jaws of nature-loving visitors to drop ever since the first overseas tourist arrived here for a brisk hike, armed only with a pocketknife and a selection of deerstalker hats. But while these early trekkers were a hardy bunch, today's tourists can drive in, amble along well-marked trails and tuck themselves up for the night in relative luxury.
This comfort-hugging sea change is nowhere more apparent than at Cathedral Mountain Lodge in B.C.'s Yoho National Park, a sumptuous clutch of cabins radiating from the foot of its towering namesake peak -- although whoever named it after a cathedral must have been seriously shortsighted.
On the original site of a 1930s miners' camp that later became a vacation lodge, the compact property was purchased in 2002 by Vancouver's Nancy Stibbard, becoming part of her business empire, which also includes the Capilano Suspension Bridge. After a couple of years of extensive rebuilding, the new boutique resort opened for its first full season in May.
Ambience
Wilderness splendour meets rustic chic. Bordered by the fast-moving Kicking Horse River, fringed by dense spruce trees and overlooked by sheer mountain crags tall enough to crick any neck, this nest of chunky, designer log cabins gives visitors a reason to rush back from their calf-punishing day hikes.
Despite the convenient proximity to Highway 1 -- though blink and you'll miss the poorly signposted turn-off -- there's an all-enveloping sound of silence here. Underlining the retreat approach, there are no in-room phones or TVs: the familiar background hiss of the city is replaced by the gentle swish of trees over cabin roofs and the relieved sighs of visitors gently easing into a slower pace of life. For those who develop nervous ticks when they're off-line, there's a dial-up Internet computer disdainfully hidden in a closet near the reception desk.
Clientele
While children (over-8s only) are welcome, there's a decidedly adult feel here -- the band of smiling seasonal staff were by far the youngest people around when I visited -- with baby boomers and retired couples filling most of the cabins. Wide-eyed nature fans from Germany, Australia and Britain were also spotted in the dining room at breakfast.
Design
The lodge's main building -- combining a compact bar, dining room, fireside lounge and outdoor riverside patio -- is a fusion of comforting aesthetics and clever detailing. The vaulted post-and-beam ceiling, built with reclaimed timber from a Vancouver Hudson's Bay warehouse, recalls the framework roofs of old English churches. But with its golden hues and surfeit of picture windows, natural light keeps the space warm and welcoming.
Both the main building and the lodge's 33 cabins are lined with reminders of the past, including wall-mounted old-world skis and tennis-racquet snowshoes. Stunning period photographs by Byron Harmon also dot the walls, illustrating the pioneering spirit of the region's early 20th-century travellers.
Rooms
Cozily compact and ranging from standalones to duplexes, each cabin is a warming cocoon of honey-hued pine. Log-framed beds and rustic wooden furniture dominate, while the bathrooms -- check out the 3-D tiles of bears and elk -- have deep soaker tubs so you can ease away the troubles of a hike too far.
While some cabins have pot-bellied gas stoves, others feature floor-to-ceiling stone hearths, pre-loaded with tepees of firewood, the perfect accompaniment to the kind of dramatic storm that raged around the mountains on my visit. Each cabin also has a porch where, in finer weather, you can recline on Adirondack chairs and watch the natural world go by: A black bear was spotted in the area on my visit.
Food and drink
A continental buffet breakfast is included in room rates, but the dining room really comes alive in the evening.
Its one-page gourmet menu of game and fish dishes changes every two days, with starters on my visit including a satisfying slab of wild boar pâté accompanied by entrées like sole stuffed with scallops. There's also a wine list of international and regional favourites alongside a heady mix of beers from Big Rock to Nelson Brewing.
While the lodge provides boxed lunches for day hikes, it's only a five-minute Highway 1 drive to the village of Field, where the quirky Truffle Pigs Café is worth a stop for fresh-baked supplies, chunky sandwiches and an array of hearty bistro-style meals.
Things to do
Early-evening naturalist presentations are held in the main building throughout the week, while the spectacular 254-metre-high Takakkaw Falls -- Canada's second-highest after Della Falls on Vancouver Island -- is only a 15-minute drive away. Those of a more active disposition should hit the exemplary hiking trails around Lake O'Hara -- you have to book a Parks Canada bus in advance (see pc.gc.ca/yoho) -- or canoe around glacier-fed Moraine Lake: equipment rental is free for lodge guests.
Bottom line
A restorative, nature-bound retreat from the city that nevertheless has a raft of pampering home comforts.
Hotel vitals
CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN LODGE
Essentials: 1-866-619-6442; cathedralmountain.com. The lodge opens from late May to early October. You'll have to drive to get there, but it's just off Highway 1, 15 minutes west of Lake Louise.
Rooms and rates: The 33 cabins range from $250 to $425 a night (single or double occupancy), breakfast included.
Top draw: Nature, up close, with soaker tubs.
Needs work: At these rates, the buffet breakfast should be supplemented with a cooked option, especially for those about to hike their legs off.